Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
